Saturday, September 14, 2013

Through the Clouds


September 5th

I’ve been told that Pokhara is the “Swiss Alps of Nepal” and after an impromptu retreat there with the other ETAs, I caught a glimpse why. Although mostly covered by monsoon clouds, the Annapurna mountain range peaked out in some places where the fog had lifted. “Is that it? Or is it a cloud?” we constantly questioned, pointing above the green hills to a promising white patch on the horizon. The rains deterred us from a full-on trek, but slowed just enough for us to enjoy a half-day hike to the famous World Peace Pagoda –and bring out the leeches!

I’ve begun to realize that the hidden mountains are a lot like my time so far here in Gorkha. Some of the clouds –the language barrier, for one, as well as cultural differences and teaching styles –have made it difficult to completely understand my role both in the classroom and at home. But like the Annapurna mountains, given a little time (and a few sunny days!), it will soon become more clear as I continue to adjust to my new life in Gorkha!  




Friday, September 6, 2013

Birthdays, Deathdays, and Every Festival In Between


30 August

Wednesday I exchanged the cake, candles, and cards that usually accompany birthdays for gifts of fruit, money, and a big red tikka that were given by, not for, my aamaa. We were celebrating her 73rd birthday –and boy does she look good! To help improve my Nepali skills, she has taken to acting out various animals to help me remember the Nepali word (my personal favorite has been her lion impersonation!) and has energy to rival Christine Stone’s! I brought a taste of America to the table by giving my aamaa a homemade birthday crown to wear for the day. Extended family members arrived in the afternoon for the birthday ceremony in which my aamaa lit candles and dabbed tikka on our foreheads for luck.







I later found out that birthdays are not traditionally celebrated in Nepali families, although due to Western influence of movies and media, younger generations are having their share of parties. Instead, the Nepalese culture recognizes family member “deathdays” in memorial of the individual’s life. Saturday evening I paid a visit to my nearby cousins and once again received tikka, although this time it was yellow in honor of my deceased grandfather. The ceremony included more gifts of fruit and money…and what’s a celebration without a dinner of dhal bhaat?

But the festivals do not stop there! This week I’ve witnessed a number of Nepali festivals, including Gia Jatra, Jania Purna, Hilya Jatra which are celebrated by dressing up, dancing, and of course, food. Buffalo, to be exact. As I turned the corner into the bazaar on my way to school on Thursday, I was taken by surprise to see a large group of men huddled around a giant buffalo carcass that had just been slaughtered. (It was at that moment I realized I hadn’t had my usual early morning wakeup call from what I had assumed to be a cow living next door.) And this is only the start of the holiday season, so I’ve been told to prepare for many more to end up on my dinner table…


Friday, August 30, 2013

The Itsy Bitsy Spider

August 27


Spandan and Stuath like to help me color my flashcards for class. As soon as they spot me walking home from school, they call out from the open window to the street below, “Didi! Color!”

Within a few minutes, there are dozens of 3x5 index cards sprawled across my bedroom floor mixed in with a tangle of arms, legs, and colored pencil shavings.

Stuath has taken an affinity to the “S” cards over the past few days and yesterday asked “Yo ke ho? What is this?” as he reached for “spider.”

Now, I’ve never had a problem with spiders. I don’t mind rescuing a few lost arachnids that find their way into bags, boots, or (my personal favorite) the corner of the wall next to my pillow.

But quite honestly, I’m not the biggest fan of the big, brown, and hairy spider that has made its home in my toilet. It’s nowhere near itsy. It’s definitely not bitsy. And it has made going to the bathroom a very complicated process.

So this morning, it was time for battle royal. Armed with a water gun borrowed from Stuath’s collection of toys and courage from a huge second helping of dhal bhat for breakfast, I marched into the bathroom to face my eight-legged opponent.

Nepali spiders must have some kind of ninja training. Or find some kind of energy drink to snack on. Either way, this one was fast and had made up his mind that he wasn’t going anywhere. However, after a nearly fatal battle (for both me and the spider –tile floors become very slippery when wet!), I emerged soaked, yet victorious.

Annie: 1. Toilet Spider: 0.


Finger Painting...with Food!


August 24

Being in Nepal, I’ve realized that there are times when I feel as if I am five-years old again.

I am relearning how to eat. It turns out eating rice with your hands takes practice. I’ve mastered scooping the potato and green bean curries into my mouth, but as hard as I try I can’t seem to coax the last few grains of rice off my plate as gracefully as my other family members, including my 7-year-old sister. I guess I’m still working on becoming a member of the clean plate club. I also have to practice not making a 6-inch splash zone all the way around my plate…
I have, however, enjoyed the phrase “finger-lickin’ good,” since I’ve learned that to clean your hands after finishing is to give all your fingers a good ol’ lick. Mmm mm.

I get to carry a lunch box again. More specifically, a bright pink plastic one borrowed from Spandan. On the morning of my second day of school, Anita called me into the kitchen and handed me my snack she had packed in the cartoon-covered lunchbox. The other teachers have loved teasing me about it almost as much as they love sharing the freshly made roti that’s inside.

I play dress-up on a regular basis. Having an American in the house has been a novelty not only for Spandan and Stuath but for the adults as well, especially Aamaa and Shanti. In preparation for the upcoming woman’s festival, Tij, Shanti raided her closet and has been coaching me on the proper way to wear the crazy red hairpiece, green beaded necklaces and red tikka. The next step: getting fitted for a red sari to wear for the occasion!

Being in a house of three teachers (in addition to Dai, my aamaa and baa are both retired teachers), I’ve been getting a lot of Nepali lessons. Aamaa has enjoyed teaching me Nepali children songs to help with my vocabulary and I’m currently learning one about a tortoise and a hare (I think, based on her accompanying hand motions!)






How many Nepalis does it take to change a lightbulb?


August 22

The answer: seven, including Stuath who lay sprawled across my bed, munching happily on puffed rice, and a slightly embarrassed American who felt terrible that her dai had to go out in the rain looking for an electrician to fix the broken bedroom light. I guess that’s what happens when the Mary Poppins’ bag comes out too early…

Yes, Stuath, had a blast with the juggling balls. However, what began as a fun dance party in my room soon became a contest to see who could throw the balls as hard as they could at the ceiling. Not surprisingly, Stuath won at his own game and the overhead light came crashing down. Soon there was an army of fast-talking family members (and some friends who stopped by to witness the show) milling about my small bedroom, shining flashlights and headlamps into outlets and flipping light switches on and off. At one point Dai got up onto the lovely ‘go-bucket’ that has taken up residence in my room and after balancing precariously on it managed to hook the light back into the ceiling. Turns out the go-bucket has been useful after all…

Om Shanti


August 21

Today was a holiday, Ganai Purnimaa, and I went with Dai, Stuath, Spandan and Urmika, my cousin, to Om Shanti, which to my understanding is a prayer room for a certain sect of Hinduism. There we received our tikka and “rakshaa” –a gold thread tied around the wrist for protection. Traditionally, it is customary for sisters to give their brothers a tikka and rakshaa in return for a gift or money. (Although I had no gift for Stuath, he took the opportunity to fall asleep in my bed. Yes, he clearly has me wrapped around his finger…) 

First Day of School! First Day of School!


August 20

After an early morning start (you can only sleep in until about 6am with a buffalo moo-ing outside your bedroom window…), I took tea with my family and entertained Stuath and Spandan while Anita did her prayers in the small worship room.

Here in Gorkha, mornings are slow-paced and savored –instead of rushing out to work with a travel mug of coffee, families take their first two meals of the day together, one of which is, you guessed it –dhal bhaat! I watched as the bazaar rumbled to life, shops rolling open their gates, revealing bangles, boots, bananas and everything in between. My dai headed off to school with a “Namaste! Tapaaiko din raamro hos! Have a nice day!” and I soon set off for the short walk to Mahendra Jyoti.

I met with my co-teacher Shova-Miss a few minutes before the first period bell rang and we walked together into class 7, where I opened with my rehearsed introduction:
“Namaste! Mero naam Annie ho. Mero desh America ho. Ma yahah sot mahinah baschu ra malaai Nepal ekdam raamro laagchha.”

Before I could take a seat in the back of the class where I had intended to observe for my first day, Shova-Miss flipped open the textbook to “Unit 9: Expressing Obligations and Giving Instructions,” handed me the textbook and said, “You teach? Thik chha?”

Oh boy. So much for taking a few days to observe.

It was in that split second of “what-the-heck-am-I-going-to-do?” moment when I realized how grateful I am for my Solomon Islands teaching experience, as well as the past four weeks of Christine’s training. Both helped me at least feel a bit confident in taking a class if not completely prepared.

I soon found Christine’s advice to be true: students, especially the older ones, have been trained to copy directly from the blackboard and repeat whatever the teacher says. It is going to be a challenge to get them to do more interactive and improvisational activities, which will eventually help them with communication skills. And managing a class of 56 seventh graders may prove to be a bigger challenge, including trying to match unfamiliar names with 56 faces squeezed in close together in the small classrooms.

After feeling out the classroom dynamics, I decided to try out Christine’s tried and true “run to the board” game. Students, two at a time, ran to the board to be the first to select the correct time from a choice of analog clocks. It was a tie of girls versus boys –there will be a tie-breaker to determine the winner on Thursday!

Although I returned home exhausted and a bit overwhelmed after similar periods teaching in grades 5, 7, and 8 (I’ll spare you the details of my attempt to sing a chant in class 5, at the request of the teacher), I am optimistic and excited to begin teaching and working with teachers at Mahendra Jyoti for the next few months!