Monday, September 30, 2013

It's Beginning to Look A Lot Like Christmas


It may be the last day of Septmeber, but my socially unacceptable habits of breaking out the Christmas carols well before the last Thanksgiving turkey drumstick has been picked clean have made me acutely aware of the festive atmosphere that’s spreading through the bazaar.

This can only mean one thing –Dashain!

The shopkeepers have dusted off their finest wares and are displaying them from hanging wires, on front steps, and even on their heads! With it being such an important time in the year for business (Black Friday, anyone?), I was honored to be promoted to “head shopkeeper” in my family’s shop this morning before school while everyone ran errands. And when I say sole shopkeeper, I mean that if anyone lingered outside looking even remotely interested, I pitched them my rehearsed speech in Nepali: “Hello! How are you? What are you looking for?” More often than not they were shocked that a foreigner was 1.) keeping shop and 2.) speaking Nepali. However, they then proceeded to reply with a list of items I don’t know the names of and/or where to find them between the stacks of buckets, bowls, and bottles of cleaner and I had to scurry upstairs to find someone to take care of the business transaction.

But Dashain is more than just the “SALE!” advertisements in the local paper. Like Christmas, it’s a time for visiting family, relaxing, and of course eating. I will be traveling with my family to visit extended family in Chitwan, learning how to cook Nepali dishes, wearing a langi, and trying not to get in the way of all the animal sacrifices right outside my front door...

Stay tuned for festival updates!

Sunday, September 29, 2013

…And some days you end up with goat’s head soup…


Forest Gump had it right when he said “ Life’s like a box of chocolates –you never know what you’re gonna get.”

Over the course of the last five weeks here in Gorkha, I recognize a number of my Western habits that have become apparent. One of the biggest realizations has been my dependence on a schedule, timetable, or some sort of fixed “norm” around which I can plan my daily activities. I’ve spent considerable time and energy trying to figure out who in my family does what and when to try and fit into their routine as seamlessly as possible. However, this has been near to impossible because life in Nepal has been full of surprises…

Sometimes its waking up to a parade outside your window –a parade of hundreds of men dressed in white, marching single file down the street, blowing horns, banging drums and leading a few dozen goats to their sacrificial demise.

Sometimes it’s arriving home from school to find that your three-year-old brother has fallen into your toilet. (Thank goodness the spider is gone –there wouldn’t be enough room for both of them!)

Sometimes it’s in the staffroom while you’re planning a lesson. Suddenly the bell rings, the students race from the school (despite there being two periods left) and voila! An unexpected half-day. The teachers then proceed to dress you up in traditional costume and have a heated discussion of finding you a suitable Nepali husband.

Sometimes it’s in the classroom when your back is turned. One of my grade 6 troublemakers took the opportunity to steal my blue sticky tack I was using for an activity, thinking it was chewing gum. (I found the culprit pretty easily –despite his vehement head shaking, there was a trail of blue string leading up to his mouth…) Other times you find yourself jumping off a desk in the front of the classroom trying to act out vocabulary in the story "The Greedy Fox." Never in my life did I think I'd be dressed in a hot pink kurta uniform, wearing a homemade fox mask, leaping from a wooden bench in front of 65 twelve year olds!
Thanks Lauren for these words of wisdom!
Co-teaching in action

Sometimes you don’t even make it to school. Although I’ve reached the five week mark, I’m still waiting to log in a full week of teaching. When I first found out that classes run from Sunday to Friday, I was initially surprised to only get one day off. However, between exams, festivals, and the bhundhs (political strikes that are a result of the upcoming November Congressional elections), there seems to be one reason after another why classes are cancelled. It’s kind of like getting snow days in the middle of summer!


...And sometimes, if you’re my friend Jeanie, it’s at the dinner table when you find yourself staring at a steaming bowl of goat’s head soup! 

Saturday, September 21, 2013

Ukus Mukus Bhayo

Yes, it sounds a lot like a weird spell -throw in a little "bubble, bubble, toil and trouble" and you can pretty much picture Bette Midler from Hocus Pocus dressed in her crazy witch wardrobe. 

But in Nepali, it literally translates to "I was so full I was suffocating" and have used this phrase daily since learning it. Between Nepali lessons with my dai, language immersion at home and flipping through flashcards in the staff room during free periods, I've started to expand my conversational Nepali beyond introductions. I can understand basic conversations i overhear on the street AND can negotiate a better price in the shop up the street for photocopying my class lessons. I even fooled my older host brother, who lives in Australia, that I was fluent when he called this morning. (That is, until he went off in Nepali and I had to admit defeat.)

On Thursday, as I sat with a full plate of vegetable curry and beaten rice during tiffin break at school (it's really a wonder how in the world I'm ever hungry when I return home!), some of the staff wanted to know how much dhal bhaat I am served at meals. "Dheri, dheri khaana!" I replied, motioning with my hands to a pretend mountain of rice. "Ukus mukus bhayo!"

What I didn't expect was for the entire staff room to erupt in laughter, with everyone pointing, saying, "Did you hear her?! Ukus mukus bhayo!"
"Amisha-miss, you speak perfect Nepali. We are so proud of you," said Ananta-sir. 

While far from perfect, I appreciated the compliment and it has served as motivation to continue with my Nepali practice. That and the fact that I need some way to manage my 62 sixth graders on the days I teach alone...

Saturday, September 14, 2013

Teej!


8 September 

…Otherwise known as the festival where I was pushed on stage to dance in front of the entire village of Gorkha and interviewed for the local radio station. In Nepali, of course!

It began with a 5am start Saturday morning when my baujyu ushered me out of bed to begin preparation for the Teej women’s festival. Wrapped, re-wrapped, and re-re-wrapped in a bright red sari, I had a firsthand account of how my Barbie dolls used to feel as I was primped, pinned, and prodded by every member of the family, who each had their own opinion of how the drape should fold and skirt should tuck. Just when I thought I was ready to go, my dai rushed in with a bag of hair supplies. An hour later, he had fixed me a beautiful prom-worthy hairstyle that required more bobby pins than I used for my junior and senior formals. Combined. I donned a bunch of borrowed gold jewelry (so much so that I was not allowed to walk around by myself in case I was mugged. Very subtle.) and was ready for the walk to the NELTA office, where the ETAs assist with extra English programs and cultural activities. And Teej was a cultural event we were told we didn’t want to miss.

Once a year, Nepali women return to their mighty garr (maternal homes) and celebrate with singing, dancing, and showing off their finest outfits. Oh, and fasting. It is customary for women to spend the day fasting for the long life of their husbands and after 3 weeks of mountains of rice, I was ready to welcome the short reprieve. I was informed that morning, however, my family does not practice that tradition when a bigger than usual rice peak arrived on the table in front of me. Apologies to my future husband –looks like you’re not off the hook for exercising and healthy eating…

We spent the day dancing with our students, feasting on Teej dar (rice pudding and vegetable curry) before returning home to rest and repeat the next day. Following the throngs of elegantly dressed women to the nearby temple, my didi and I passed some of my students along the way.
“Raamro nacchnu! Dheri dheri raamro nacchnu,” they all giggled, pointing at me. “Beautiful dancing.”
Why, thank you, I thought. This caused my didi to speak enthusiastically (read: so quickly it was beyond comprehension) although I was able to catch bits and pieces. Dancing. Stage. Camera. Photo. America.
Yes, I thought. I’m definitely going to take plenty of photos to show my family and friends at home.

Ten minutes later when I found myself being pulled onto the stage, I realized that my translation had been a bit off… I was the one that would be dancing on stage. When the split-second moment of panic wore off, I pretended I knew what I was doing and mimicked the dancers around me –then added in some moves of my own. (If you see any future Nepali music videos featuring moves that look suspiciously like the Macarana with a few wrist flicks and hip shakes, you can probably guess why…)

Smiling and sweating, I made my way to the stage steps once the music finally slowed. But before I could escape to freedom, the MC grabbed my arm and pushed a microphone at my face.
“Just a few questions,” her voice crackled over a dozen loudspeakers positioned around the grounds. “Can you tell us you’re name, where you’re from and how you like the Teej festival?”
I silently thanked Prava-ji for her month of language training and the ability to respond in Nepali.
“Mero naam Amisha Shrestha ho ra mero desh America ho. Yo dheri dheri raamilo chaa!”

Even hours later, Didi was still laughing and showing me off to everyone we passed. “FM radio! FM radio!” she called out, again pointing to me. Not only did all of Gorkha witness my dancing, but for anyone missing out at home, they could tune into my radio interview. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how one slightly confused and overwhelmed, yet excited American got her Nepali claim to fame! 

Through the Clouds


September 5th

I’ve been told that Pokhara is the “Swiss Alps of Nepal” and after an impromptu retreat there with the other ETAs, I caught a glimpse why. Although mostly covered by monsoon clouds, the Annapurna mountain range peaked out in some places where the fog had lifted. “Is that it? Or is it a cloud?” we constantly questioned, pointing above the green hills to a promising white patch on the horizon. The rains deterred us from a full-on trek, but slowed just enough for us to enjoy a half-day hike to the famous World Peace Pagoda –and bring out the leeches!

I’ve begun to realize that the hidden mountains are a lot like my time so far here in Gorkha. Some of the clouds –the language barrier, for one, as well as cultural differences and teaching styles –have made it difficult to completely understand my role both in the classroom and at home. But like the Annapurna mountains, given a little time (and a few sunny days!), it will soon become more clear as I continue to adjust to my new life in Gorkha!  




Friday, September 6, 2013

Birthdays, Deathdays, and Every Festival In Between


30 August

Wednesday I exchanged the cake, candles, and cards that usually accompany birthdays for gifts of fruit, money, and a big red tikka that were given by, not for, my aamaa. We were celebrating her 73rd birthday –and boy does she look good! To help improve my Nepali skills, she has taken to acting out various animals to help me remember the Nepali word (my personal favorite has been her lion impersonation!) and has energy to rival Christine Stone’s! I brought a taste of America to the table by giving my aamaa a homemade birthday crown to wear for the day. Extended family members arrived in the afternoon for the birthday ceremony in which my aamaa lit candles and dabbed tikka on our foreheads for luck.







I later found out that birthdays are not traditionally celebrated in Nepali families, although due to Western influence of movies and media, younger generations are having their share of parties. Instead, the Nepalese culture recognizes family member “deathdays” in memorial of the individual’s life. Saturday evening I paid a visit to my nearby cousins and once again received tikka, although this time it was yellow in honor of my deceased grandfather. The ceremony included more gifts of fruit and money…and what’s a celebration without a dinner of dhal bhaat?

But the festivals do not stop there! This week I’ve witnessed a number of Nepali festivals, including Gia Jatra, Jania Purna, Hilya Jatra which are celebrated by dressing up, dancing, and of course, food. Buffalo, to be exact. As I turned the corner into the bazaar on my way to school on Thursday, I was taken by surprise to see a large group of men huddled around a giant buffalo carcass that had just been slaughtered. (It was at that moment I realized I hadn’t had my usual early morning wakeup call from what I had assumed to be a cow living next door.) And this is only the start of the holiday season, so I’ve been told to prepare for many more to end up on my dinner table…